This year marks a milestone in my time on this earth. My partner and I have found a new level of professional success and stability, the kids are growing like weeds, our Donty-Wonty (aka Dante, our rescue dogg-o) continues to give us so much joy and love, and we are all healthy and happy. Given the hell I went through last year (see my previous issue), I’m profoundly grateful for the privilege to enumerate my blessings and still strive for a better world to leave my children.
2024 is also the year of crossing hemispheres — figuratively and literally. I marked my mid-century solar circumambulation by making my first foray south of the equator. In short, we made a once-in-a-lifetime1 trip to Kenya, to go on safari in the Maasai Mara.
This trip has been a twinkle in my eye since even before I met Samir, but always as a vague “someday, somehow.” Growing up, Africa was never a destination for our family — I imagine in part due to the latent and blatant racism in our South Asian culture, and also the costs, plus going so far with young children without having trusted on-the-ground contacts for support. When I met Samir in 2001, he had just made the trip the previous year and was full of stories, wonder, and photos to share. It was the first time I had heard about South Asians living in Kenya — my childhood potluck group only included families who had emigrated directly from South Asia, so I had no firsthand relationships with folks whose diasporic journeys included a stop there. And Bollywood only told the stories of kids being shipped off to boarding school in England, not (gasp) Africa.
If I had really thought about it, I could have vaguely recalled that Mohandas Gandhi had gone to Africa to work. Like Samir’s family, Gandhi originally hailed from Gujarat, so in my mind, the two geographical areas became linked in a familial manner, and somehow that relationship subtly reinforced the idea that maybe this destination was not for me, as I come from another state in India.
With the lack of visibility of Indians in American visual storytelling, even this mention of our most famous South Asian made me swell with pride. Now I know we can do better!
Fortunately, as the years passed, Samir and I became inextricably linked and now, with our own family, we began to dream about how to mark my milestone birthday. Of course safari was the answer. And because our trip was so monumentally successful — from the restaurants and our accommodations, to our safari guide who enabled us to see everything — I want to share our adventure with you so you can travel either vicariously through my journal, or plan your own once-in-a-lifetime trip.
We arrived the night of Aug 3 and immediately settled into our hotel. As Kenya is seven hours ahead of NYC, our circadian rhythms were definitely off. We ordered room service and watched the Olympics, finally getting to bed around 2am. The next day, we met Samir’s cousin’s in-laws at Slush, the oldest Indian restaurant in Kenya serving all sorts of vegetarian dishes. We spent at least an hour getting to know Vasu Auntie and Rashmi Uncle, who were born and raised in Kenya and are the nicest people imaginable. Vasu Auntie is especially very proud of her African identity, and was so pleased that we had chosen her home to celebrate my transition into hemispheres by transitioning into her hemispheres. She eagerly ordered all the best dishes — Maru Bhajiya, bhel puri, cheese dosa, and more — all incredibly delicious. Vasu Auntie also suggested I try “wimco,” a fizzy black currant soda that was pleasantly tangy and not too sweet. Her hospitality and the food instantly sparked a feeling of comfort, familiarity — of home. It was only our first morning in Kenya, and already it felt like we belonged to a larger community.
With full hearts and bellies, we reluctantly bid adieu to Auntie and Uncle, and set off for our first animal encounter – a visit to the Giraffe Center. This sanctuary houses ten Rothschild giraffes, an endangered subspecies only found in the grasslands of East Africa. The Center educates visitors on their plight, and provides an opportunity to meet these beautiful animals by feeding them in a safe environment. My family and I had tons of fun scooping pellets from our coconut-husk bowls and offering them to the giraffes, who slurped them down with their blue tongues. It was altogether an unforgettable experience.
The next morning, we headed to The Sheldrick Wildlife Trust (SWT) to meet the orphaned elephants they rehabilitate in their nursery. As every orphan in their care will ultimately be reintegrated back into the wild, these visits only take place for one hour to limit human contact. The visiting area was already quite crowded when we arrived, and we were able to find space in the shade at the far end — which proved to be the best location. As we walked to that spot, we saw folks wearing dresses, some in all-white outfits, and open-toe shoes. Internally I shook my head and wished them luck.
Our visit began with a special guest appearance by Raha, a black rhino calf who survived a mauling and is thriving under the keepers’ care. She pranced for us around the pen before being led away, trotting happily beside her keeper.
Soon after, the first group of elephants trotted across the field. This was the youngest in their care, and they greedily sucked milk from their bottles before heading to the muddy watering hole. As they bathed and sprayed themselves, our host introduced each one by name and shared their story of how they were saved by SWT. Some of the calves were led around the pen, close to the visitor cordon, and we carefully petted their hairy skin. I can’t remember the last time I was this close to an elephant — I have photos of riding them in India when I was younger — and this was my children’s first encounter. I tried not to get caught up in documenting each moment, and instead stayed present with them as they experienced these playful creatures for the first time.
After this first group left, the keepers released the second group — the teenagers. And wow, were they mischievous! After drinking two milk bottles each, they began frolicking with each other, nudging and roughhousing as teens do. Several headed to the watering hole to use it as both a bath and a toilet. As they sprayed themselves with this dubious mixture, we witnessed several of the aforementioned poorly dressed visitors get doused with the effluent, painting them in a uniform brown. I whispered a silent thanks for our location.
I’m grateful that my kids listened with intention as they met the elephants. Even now, they can rattle off some of the names, and we love recounting that experience. The Sheldrick Wildlife Trust’s impact is outsized and far-reaching (read their 2023 annual report here), and if you take one thing away from this newsletter, please ADOPT an orphaned animal and DONATE to support their work.
After our third night in Nairobi, we spent nearly a day transiting by van to the Mara. Along the way, we stopped at a scenic overlook to view the Great Rift Valley, where three tectonic plates (Arabian, Nubian, and Somalian plates) are in the process of diverging to split the African Plate into two separate plates divided by the ocean.2 The view across thousands of miles was breathtaking and a little knee-wobbling, reminding me once again of our relatively short time on this planet.
Just outside of the Greater Mara, we exchanged our minivan and driver for an open-air Land Cruiser and safari guide. William is Maasai, born and raised in the Greater Mara, and trained as a guide. His instinctive knowledge of the land and animals, plus his gentle nature and warm smile, proved invaluable to our experience.
The Mara reserve is largely unfenced, allowing animals to roam freely. Local inhabitants usually put up fencing around their homes, but there are still occasional reports of lions making off with livestock. As we arrived at our first camp, we were greeted by a handful of giraffe on the opposite side of the road. After seeing them in such a controlled setting at the Giraffe Center, it was astonishing to see them loping across the greenery, as if cattle or a dog. What a wonderful way to greet us for our safari adventure!
Over the next week, we saw incredible wildlife activities and behaviors rarely witnessed by first time visitors — all thanks to William. Here are some highlights:
After a week in the Maasai Mara with core memories made and our hearts and cameras full, we bid a slightly sad farewell to William, hopped into our minivan, and returned to Nairobi. We were delighted to accept an invitation to Rashmi Uncle and Vasu Auntie’s home for dinner. Nairobi is incredibly green and lush, and their home was no exception. The grounds are beautifully landscaped with a wide variety of palm trees, flowers, plants, and bushes, lending color and visual interest. Auntie had prepared a gorgeous spread of all sorts of Indian delicacies, including pani puri, papri chaat, and dokhla, followed by daal, saabzi, and fresh roti, naan, and parantha, accompanied by dahi and an assortment of achaars. We recounted our Mara experience and then Rashmi Uncle regaled us with his lifelong adventures of marathons around the world and climbing Mount Kilimanjaro and K2. It was a fun evening feeling engulfed in a warm hug with new family members, especially in a part of the world completely new to us.
Our final four days were spent at a resort in Diani Beach, just a short flight from Nairobi. We stayed at a lovely beachfront resort which had great buffets (our daughter’s happy place), a giant pool with a swim-up bar (a huge hit with both of our kids), and monkeys everywhere. During our time there, we soaked up the sun, went snorkeling in a glass-bottom boat, introduced both kids to scuba-diving in the pool, drank lots of pina coladas, and read. I read NK Jemisin’s entire Broken Earth trilogy in three days — something that has been on my list for three years. On our last night there, I completed my mid-century solar circumambulation, and on our final morning, as we left breakfast with bananas in hand, we were attacked by monkeys and lost half the bunch — a fitting farewell to our animal adventure.
Back here in New York City, the weather may be turning cooler, but my suntan hasn’t faded. I’m reminded of Champagne problems — if you are a BIPOC woman, you know that even 15mins in the sun means buying a new matching shade of foundation. Thank the goddesses I’m here to drink to that 🥂
Flights: Though there is a direct flight to Nairobi via Kenya Airways, we opted for a slightly longer itinerary and flew Qatar Airlines via Doha. We booked our flights nearly six months in advance. As a family of four, we were able to secure the middle four seats across a row, and were relatively comfortable.
Packing Recommendations: Since we were going to be on the move, and really only going on safari or on the beach, we limited our packing to one rollerboard carry-on and one backpack. These are the things that I brought that I found most useful:
3/4 culotte (cropped) pants — Kept the sun off of my legs so I remained relatively cool, plus it was easy to squat when we needed to leave our DNA in the Mara. It’s better to get the quick-dry kind used for camping, in case you have to wash them in a sink for the next day.
Hooded sweatshirt w Kangaroo pocket — As the safari drives are usually very early morning or towards sunset, it can get a little cooler and layers are essential. I found this useful to stash my smartphone so I could whip out my camera with ease, and without making giant movements that might scare away the animals.
Hooded L/S t-shirt w kangaroo pocket — Same as the sweatshirt, but lighter, for daytime. As with the pants, the long sleeves kept the sun off of my skin and helped me feel cooloer.
Wet wipes and garbage bag — Sometimes nature calls in more ways than one, and wet wipes can make challenging bathroom situations more comfortable. The wipes must be put into a bag to dispose back at camp.
Sports Bras — Sometimes our guide will get a hot tip about an animal sighting, and dashing along the dirt-and-pebble roads can get really bumpy. Sports bras with good support are helpful for reducing discomfort — I brought two for the trip.
iPhone Bandolier — I’ve had this for a few years but only started using it recently. This functioned as a camera strap does for photographers — I was able to hang my smartphone cross-body and safely tuck it into my shirt’s kangaroo pocket during our mad dashes across the savanna. And then it was at the ready for those photo opportunities.
In addition, I wish I had brought a Uniqlo liner jacket (or something similarly lightweight that packs small), for an extra layer of warmth for those chilly mornings and evenings. Contrary to popular internet advice, please don’t buy and wear all-khaki safari clothes — as Samir’s cousin from Kenya said, “Only tourists wear khaki.”
Accommodations:
Movenpick Hotel, Nairobi — We booked the Mövenpick Hotel for our first few days in Nairobi. Mövenpick is a fantastic Swiss hotel line and the property and hospitality were excellent. They have a giant pool, and the food at the main restaurant was outstanding. (My daughter really loves buffets so this made her very happy). Something that became a recurring theme during our stay: Apparently a reservation for four people requires two rooms, so at the Mövenpick, we had a two-bedroom apartment. It was nearly as big as our Brooklyn condo! It felt great to have the room to spread out and relax. As it was a proper apartment, we also had access to a washing machine, and so before we left, we were able to fully refresh our wardrobe in preparation for the Mara.
Mara Maisha Camp — This all-inclusive tented camp is located just 4.5 km from the Talek Gate to the Mara, which made it a short drive before sunrise or after sunset. The name belies the level of comfort (every tent has electricity and indoor plumbing), with great service and an attentive staff, without being over-the-top (e.g. JW Marriott or Olare Mara Kempinski). The meals are buffet style (again, winner-winner in my daughter’s eyes!), they have a pool, and they have family tents overlooking vast savanna expanses. We enjoyed Tusker beers on our porch and saw lots of stars at night. Highly recommend.
Olive Bush Camp — This is one of the few tented camps that is actually within the park, and it did not disappoint. The tents were spacious and comfortable, and the food was incredible, with changing daily menus made fresh to order. The camp is right on the Mara River, and one can see and hear hippos cavorting day and night. In fact, due to the proximity of the river, there were Maasai guards stationed throughout the grounds, and escorted us to our tent after dark, in case the hippos had climbed up the riverbank.
Radisson Blu Arboretum, Nairobi — When we returned to Nairobi, we stayed at this beautiful hotel for one night. Though more of a business vibe, it had a fantastic pool and great buffet breakfast. Our booking was again a two-bedroom apartment with a kitchen and if we had stayed longer, we definitely would have made greater use of it.
Neptune Palm Beach Boutique Resort & Spa, Diani Beach — This was the icing on the cake. Samir booked this beautiful all-inclusive resort on the beach. The tide comes right up to the retaining wall so all the beach chairs are on the sea grass next to the pool, and there are stairs descending to the beach. The upside is very little sand in your stuff! The rooms are super-comfortable with air-conditioning (Diana is humid due to the ocean), the buffets are varied and expansive, and certain drinks are included. My kids loved getting (nonalcoholic!) pina coladas from the swim-up bar, and we used their shop to rent a glass-bottom boat for snorkeling. There are three hotels on the property and this by far was the least crowded. The staff was wonderful and attentive, and there are even folks who climb the palm trees to crack fresh coconuts for you! It was the best place to celebrate my birthday. We highly, highly recommend.
Restaurants in Nairobi:
Slush — As mentioned above, this is really great Indian food. The dosas were perfection.
Asmara — No trip to Kenya would be complete without sampling local cuisine, and this culinary destination also offers Eritrean and Ethiopian food as well. There is a dearth of great Ethiopian food in New York City, and we were excited to get a giant plate of several dishes atop fresh injera. The service was more “European-paced” but we didn’t mind.
Carnivore — A tourist staple that lived up to our expectations. Our son tried everything — chicken sausage, pork ribs, honey-glazed chicken wings, Yakitori chicken thighs, turkey, ostrich, crocodile, fish, chicken liver, beef ribs, and sliced beef — and Samir has most, while our daughter and I stuck with the more conventional options. Apparently Carnivore used to serve bush meat, which my father had tried in Jo’burg decades earlier — he seemed disappointed that we didn’t experience more “adventurous” options.
Animal Encounters:
The Giraffe Center — Feeding times are 9a-5pm so there’s no need to book in advance, unless you have a limited window or are like me and prefer to have everything planned out and entry assured. Plan on taking turns feeding and photodocumenting the experience with your travel partner, or you can ask someone there to take photo and video. One giraffe in particular head-butts, so it’s important to monitor any young visitors.
The Sheldrick Wildlife Trust — Bookings open three months in advance. As this is one of the most popular destinations in Nairobi, it is strongly suggested you book as soon as your day is available. Visitors must pay the Nairobi National Park gate entry fees, and the SWT entry fee. Believe me, it is all worth it when you meet these playful creatures, and witness how much love there is between the elephants and their keepers. I also highly recommend going to the far right side and standing in the shade for two reasons: (1) It’s not as hot, and (2) you won’t get mud and feces on you when the elephants spray themselves from the mud-hole in the front. We saw several folks covered head-to-toe… EWWW!
The Maasai Mara — For the Maasai Mara guide, I would ask Mario Tours to assign you William — there are two, so ask for Lamaiyan, which is his Maasai name. William’s mobile is +254 (0) 700 710 809 and he's on WhatsApp, but he prioritizes bookings through Mario Tours.
Thank you for being a paid subscriber to Jain of All Trades. Please reach out if you have any questions regarding my recommendations, or if I can text William for you. I hope you have an amazing time on your safari!
I say “once-in-a-lifetime” because I do not want to get greedy, but this is my partner’s second trip to Kenya, and as we have extended family there, there is always hope for another trip in the future. And there are still so many other places to visit in Africa — Nigeria, Ghana, Morocco, Egypt, Madagascar, Botswana, South Africa… fingers crossed I can put a pin in those places on our map as well!
A little-known fact about me is that I LOVE learning about planetary changes through geological and astronomical time and their parallels in world mythology. Whether it’s the Gaia hypothesis and the Great Flood, the Big Bang theory and the Yuga Cycle, and more, I love comparing our universe’s universal stories
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